Mumbai: The pav-makers must be spared, former BJP corporator Makarand Narwekar has demanded. With the July 8 deadline looming for restaurants to make the switch from charcoal and wood-fired tandoors to cleaner alternatives, he has urged CM Devendra Fadnavis to exempt the city’s iconic Irani cafes and bakeries from the ban and accord them heritage status to preserve their culinary identity that is intertwined with Mumbai’s history.
Narwekar made the demand after receiving a letter from Irani Bakers Association, which said implementing Bombay HC’s Jan 9 order prohibiting the use of wood and charcoal in commercial eateries as part of measures to tackle Mumbai’s worsening air quality would adversely disrupt the supply of pav required for vada pav. “…pav is the only complementary product which goes with vada. Vada pav, as we know, has become a basic necessity for every Mumbaikar, and any disturbance in supply will create an unwanted scenario,” said the association.
In his letter to the CM, Narwekar said the Irani cafes of south Mumbai have long been a cornerstone of the city’s food culture and history. “These cafes have been in existence for over a century, and the wood-fired ovens they use are an integral part of their legacy. The distinct taste and aroma of the baked goods that these cafes are known for are the direct result of the wood and charcoal-based ovens. The non-wood or coal ovens will change the taste of the cuisine, which patrons have cherished for generations.”
Asserting that Irani cafes are not just eateries but an essential part of Mumbai’s culinary history, Narwekar highlighted that their origins trace to the 19th century, when Zoroastrian immigrants introduced their culinary traditions to the city. “To preserve this integral part of our heritage, I request that the govt consider granting heritage status to these Irani Cafes, with an exemption from the prohibition on wood and charcoal use. This would protect a significant cultural identity that is closely tied to Mumbai’s history,” he said.
Narwekar pointed out that in New York, historic restaurants are exempt from regulations to protect traditional cooking methods, while in the Netherlands, centuries-old windmills, in the middle of the cities, are preserved as national heritage.
Meanwhile, a section of bakery owners has said switching over to piped gas isn’t easy for all. Samajwadi Party MLA Rais Shaikh, who led a delegation of a few bakery owners to additional municipal commissioner Vipin Sharma on Monday, said, “There is no piped gas within city limits, where a large number of bakeries are located. How does one then expect these bakery owners who are willing to make the switch from solid fuels to cleaner fuel in the next six months? A meeting should be called with MGL and MPCB to first create infrastructure for them and then make such rules mandatory.”
